This holiday is essentially the Swiss version of Carnival in that it is a big hoorah before the 40 days of Lent abstinence begins. It is also said to be a festival to help scare away the evil spirits of winter and welcome in spring.
The festivities began last Thursday with people dressing up in old fashioned night gowns and caps and the cliques walking around town in the middle of the night playing Gugge music (think of a big brass marching band that is off key). Friday and Saturday nights were full of German's walking around town in costumes and going to dance parties.
Sunday was the beginning of the main celebrations. After church a group of us gathered at Michael and Delynn's apartment which is situated in the center of town. The Weil am Rhein parade begins in the town square just below. Each clique dresses up in the same costume and walk along with their float, either playing music or throwing confetti and goodies at the parade participants. I must say it was fun to watch this city I know to be so reserved and quiet get a little crazy!
However, Weil is tame compared to what happens in Liestal. This is a town just outside Basel that is known for it's Chienbäse (Fire Parade). They literally set wagons loaded with wood on fire and parade them down the streets. The parade does not begin until after dark and the wagons of wood all start just before the city gate. Since the gate is made out of wood, the fire department is tasked with hosing it down before each wagon goes through.
This year when one of the largest wagons stopped right in front of where we were standing everyone ducked at the same time because it was so hot, but I wasn't paying attention, so I got to see the flame shoot out over everyone hunkered down in front of me just before I ducked from the heat. The wagons of fire are so hot that the jackets of people in the front rows will melt. This gives me an even greater respect for the people who not only carry the broomsticks of fire on their shoulders, but also run and dance with them as they make their way through the town streets.
(Me in front of one of the wagons full of wood ready to be set alight.)
(One of the smaller wagons making it's way through town. The largest have flames up to three stories tall. This one was only about two.)
After the Fire Parade is when the waiting game starts. This year we waited out our time by having tea and snacks with the Stücklins and then hanging out at our friend Molly's. This is the point where I decided it would be wise to find a blanket and curl up for a several hour nap. Once everyone was collected and a bit of mischief was had it was time to venture out into the heart of Basel. At 3:30am we found our places at Schifflände which affords the ability to see four different routes of the parading lanterns and piccolo/drum bands make their way through the lightless streets of downtown Basel for the tradition known as Morgenstreich. It is truly a beautiful and eerie sight! Since the sun was coming up by about 5:00am we decided we had seen plenty and headed to bed.
My Fasnacht celebrations ended this year with the kinder parade that took place on Tuesday. I had the joy of actually running into two students from RIA who had decorated and were riding on one of the floats. They thoroughly pounded me with confetti and I am sure I will continue to find it in my backpack during the year to come!
(My feet in the beautiful confetti!)
Both of the links in this blog will take you to sites that have more information on Chienbäse and Basler Fasnacht. I can personally vouch for the amounts of confetti used and that the streets are practically spotless the morning after the events are finished. When the Swiss go wild they go crazy, but as soon as the festivities are over things are back to their orderly ways.
